Cityfinity

Homage to cities that make you feel infinite

Graffiti in Ljubljana

Graffiti in Ljubljana

This is the graffiti I miss the most in Ljubljana. There are variations of it - birds in different colors and sizes - all over the city, but this one was special because its home was the Slovenian Philharmonic Hall. They repainted the wall just when we all accepted the bird as something bound to make us smile during our walks by the river. Unfortunately, this is how graffiti are treated here in general.

I'm going to Venice and Belgrade very soon. It's as if my real vacation is only beginning now (although visiting cities is never a vacation for me). This is what I've been looking forward to all summer. Ljubljana sort of went by this year; I didn't engage much in anything it had to offer apart from a couple of concerts. I hope September will bring a dash of fresh air.

Late August melancholy

Dubrovnik

When I hold this photo in my hands, the sea surface becomes liquid, flowing under viable rays of late August sun. Is it the memories resurfacing? Whatever the secret of sea coming to life so vividly, it's the reason this whole scenery is so "ideal" in summer, especially in the last two weeks of August when people are still flocking to Dubrovnik, although the usual run of things would rather have them back in their offices and classrooms as early as possible. The decline of summer inspires a want to prolong it; in Dubrovnik's case, this means that any change of estival habits is out of question. Old ladies with little dogs still drink their coffee and sit ashore, gazing into the distance. Cruise liners keep offloading tourists and guiding them through the Old Town slowly so that nobody gets lost. Restaurants remain so packed that you wait 10 minutes before you're served. But in defiance of their effort, everybody knows that the end of the season is imminent, that the next summer is 9 months away, and so people's quotidian rituals become infused with a dash of melancholy.

Late August was when I was in Dubrovnik the first time. There's something in the city's coming to terms with its spiralling towards a long period of mundanity that makes me doubt I'll ever want to see Dubrovnik in June or July.

Salzburg Festival and the power of music

Sometimes cities surprise you and you find the one perfume that suits your want not to be perceived as more serious than you really are where you least expect it. Peach, vanilla, pear, fresh grass and musky rose is how I'm going to remember my recent trip to Salzburg, just as CK Euphoria always recalls memories of opera nights in Vienna. Salzburg is a fairy tale, I can't think of it as real nor imagine what it would be like to live there unless you can survive solely on classical music and Mozart balls (I prefer the "fake", more popular ones to the original ones from Fürst, a blasphemy). Just like 2 years ago I saw a concert at the Great Festival Hall, but I was so overwhelmed with being at the Festival of all Festivals then that I didn't notice how gorgeous the Hall is until my second visit; I tried to compensate for the lost impressions by staying in the building after nearly everyone had left, walking around quiet and empty post-concert spaces.

It's difficult to write about the concerts and operas I see as I don't think anyone can fully understand it unless they've been there, but it's better to share these experiences than keep them shielded behind moleskines' elastic bands. Despite its price, the position of the seat (parterre, row 9, far right side) didn't look too promising at first, but as soon as the concert began, I realized that what I needed to see was ideally unobstructed. Ludwig V. Beethoven's Concerto for Piano and Orchestra No. 4 in G, op. 58 with Daniel Barenboim conducting the Vienna Philharmonic without scores and playing the piano by heart simultaneously; a performance so unbelivable, so out of this world that it could only take place in Salzburg (as the city is, like I mentioned, unreal itself); I saw every single movement of his hands and head as well as facial expressions. Of course, Barenboim has conducted this piece before, but the concert as a whole was structured perfectly, allowing me to stay focused throughout its entire duration. After Beethoven, we heard Pierre Boulez's Notations I-IV, VII - for someone who usually isn't appreciative of contemporary classical music, I enjoyed Boulez's music immensely - and Anton Bruckner's Te Deum for Soloists, Chorus and Orchestra, which was when the Concert Association of the Vienna State Opera Chorus emerged on the stage, probably from the very heavens (the massive, stirring music that followed implied nothing less than that). The far-from-surprising consensus was that Barenboim, who is 67 and has more energy than any other person conductor I've seen, completely stole the show from the superstar soloists (Dorothea Röschmann, Elīna Garanča, Klaus Florian Vogt and René Pape).

After such concerts I usually endure a couple days of absolute misery, the precise reason of which I have trouble defining, but I suspect it has something to do with all the anticipation that builds up in me before the performance (tickets are ordered at least half a year in advance, so I have plenty of time to get excited). Despite knowing that I'd most likely find the musician lifestyle uncomfortable and unfulfilling in the long run, the occasions that connect me to the music world always make me wonder whether it was a mistake to quit playing the violin competitively at 17 (if I went on to study it at university, I could end up playing on the exact stages I can only admire now). However, this time in Salzburg, my head wasn't clouded with nonsense. I thought about my new perfume, the Japanese restaurant with the best yakitori chicken, the smell of rain in the air, my mom's company, the Mirabell gardens and the river, leaving no room for what could impact me in a way I wouldn't benefit anything from. Somehow Salzburg always makes me very happy.

(For those interested, ORF 2 is going to broadcast the concert on Sunday, August 1st, at 11:05)

Cities and smells

Upon arriving to the seaside last week after not having set foot there in quite a while, I realized Crikvenica is the only place in the world that I consciously associate with particular smells. Olfaction-wise I've gotten so oblivious to my surroundings that I have trouble naming even one smell reminiscent of Ljubljana, New York or any other city, but Crikvenica is much different. Not only do I know exactly what to expect, I recognize it instantly, as soon as I get out of the car. I'm sure most of it is to blame on nostalgia - smells from your childhood stay etched in your mind and you wouldn't forget them in a million years even if you never experienced them again.

The smells of Crikvenica are:

  • LAVENDER, whose smell is the most beautiful right after it's been copiously watered to recover from heat in the evening.
  • GRILLED MEAT from neighboring terraces and gardens, a Croatian summer classic.
  • PINE TREES, never too pungent, the one I would like to embottle.
  • SEA, especially when you're swimming.
  • DRY GRASS, because unless it threatens every living being with dehydration, you can't call it a proper summer.